Dress makers

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NPMum
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Dress makers

Post by NPMum » Sun Aug 05, 2012 7:05 pm

If you are sewing clothes for yourself how do you usually get a good fit?
Do you adjust at the pattern stage? Make a calico/test version first? Adjust as you go?

Do you sew with a mannequin?

I have been thinking that I would like a mannequin but don't know anyone who uses one so I am wondering if it is worthwhile. At the moment for me it probably isn't as I'm not sewing many clothes for myself.
I usually adjust the fit as I go but I often find that a pattern is too tight in the waist or too short in the body which can be hard to adjust once the pattern is cut.

Also when you have a multi size pattern do you usually cut it out in your size or trace it onto paper in the size you want so that the original pattern can be used again in a different size?

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Re: Dress makers

Post by Amethyst » Sun Aug 05, 2012 7:59 pm

NPMum wrote:If you are sewing clothes for yourself how do you usually get a good fit?
Do you adjust at the pattern stage? Make a calico/test version first? Adjust as you go?
Adjust at the pattern stage, although some times I make hems and allowances too large on purpose and adjust those later.
NPMum wrote:Do you sew with a mannequin?
Nope, would love one but they are a bit spendy and I don't think I sew enough to justify to myself getting one :lol: .
NPMum wrote:Also when you have a multi size pattern do you usually cut it out in your size or trace it onto paper in the size you want so that the original pattern can be used again in a different size?
Cut it to the largest size then fold it down to my size.
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Mrs Shavas
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Re: Dress makers

Post by Mrs Shavas » Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:08 pm

this website has heaps of ideas. www.sewweekly.com. I usually do a muslin the first time I sew a pattern, and then I usually adjust at the pattern stage. I tend to have a small seam allowance anyway, so adjusting is generally making smaller rather than larger.
"almost without exception [women] are shown in their relation to men. It was strange to think that all the great women of fiction were, [...]not only seen by the other sex, but seen only in relation to the other sex. And how small a part of a woman’s life is that"Virginia Woolf
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NPMum
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Re: Dress makers

Post by NPMum » Sun Aug 05, 2012 9:14 pm

Mrs Shavas wrote:this website has heaps of ideas. http://www.sewweekly.com.
Love this website, so many pretty dresses, great how it gets inspiration from current trends and then matches it with a pattern, I would have not given a lot of those patterns a second look but now can see the potential.
Thanks for putting me onto this :D

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Re: Dress makers

Post by sable » Sun Aug 05, 2012 9:22 pm

I know most of my adjustments and do them to the paper pattern, I do have a dress form, but mostly use it for hemming as Dh isn't the best at that. My dress form needs to be padded to get the right shape; she doesn't have a tummy and my bust is bigger than hers too.
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Re: Dress makers

Post by UrsulaGiles » Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:18 am

I tend to make my own patterns, so adjust there then always make a mock up and usually adjust again as I make up the garment to check that the final fabric behaves the same as the mock up (a lot of what I make is historical costumes).

When I use commercial patterns I try to trace out but it depends if I have the paper to trace onto, how much time I have to get something finished and if I can be bothered.

I don't have a mannequin but I do have forms for a couple of the people I sew for regularly that match them exactly, you make them by dressing them in some tight clothes that can be sacrificed the wrapping them in tape, cut them out (carefully) then tape closed the cuts and ankles/wrists/neck and stuff. Everything I'd read said to use duct tape but we just used packing tape, worked fine and so much cheaper (takes at least a full roll usually, depending on size). I keep meaning to make ones for me & DH, but I was still pregnant when I made the last ones and haven't had time since (takes 2+ hours per person).
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Re: Dress makers

Post by Mrs Shavas » Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:37 pm

NPMum wrote:
Mrs Shavas wrote:this website has heaps of ideas. http://www.sewweekly.com.
Love this website, so many pretty dresses, great how it gets inspiration from current trends and then matches it with a pattern, I would have not given a lot of those patterns a second look but now can see the potential.
Thanks for putting me onto this :D
I check it almost every day, I'm a sew weekly junkie :-). Two of the contributors live in Wellington as well.
"almost without exception [women] are shown in their relation to men. It was strange to think that all the great women of fiction were, [...]not only seen by the other sex, but seen only in relation to the other sex. And how small a part of a woman’s life is that"Virginia Woolf
Mum to my P Monkey 18/04/08, fox 28/11/09, and Missy moo moo 2/07/12

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Re: Dress makers

Post by Plingie » Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:50 pm

You can also make your own dress form out of that old school brown paper tape that you wet to stick. Cover yourself in gladwrap then get someone to mummify you in the tape. Let it dry then cut if off you and stuff it. Apparently it goes really hard

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