Woollen Soaker/Longies/Skoaker Patterns

Dunners
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Woollen Soaker/Longies/Skoaker Patterns

Post by Dunners » Tue May 03, 2005 10:05 pm

Okay, just going to kick start this topic with a couple of links that have inspired me:

On the round:
http://www.livejournal.com/community/punk_knitters/110889.html

Longies:
http://www.birdcrossstitch.com/organicwool/woolpants.html

Recycled Butt Sweater:
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Oaks/1126/buttsweaterpage.html
http://www.borntolove.com/frugal-column2.html
http://www.diaperfabric.com/store/WsAncillary.asp?ID=3

Frilly Leg:
http://www.birdcrossstitch.com/soakers/pattern/

Ottobre Soaker:
http://www.ottobredesign.com/en/print/pdf/wool_diaper_cover_en.pdf

Crochet wrap:
http://www.tickleturdle.com/Wraps.htm

Victoria's Knitted wrap:
Victoria's Wrap Soaker

Now, this is the first time I've ever designed a pattern, so bear with me.

Wrap style, flat knitted soaker, newborn size.

gauge is 4 stitches/5 rows per inch. Makes a heavier weight, dense soaker.
Size 10 needles, Lamb's Pride bulky weight yarn, or whatever gives you the proper gauge, 4 pieces of scrap yarn in a color contrasting your soaker yarn, each about 4 inches long.

Cast on 50 stitches.
Work a k1, p1 ribbing for 6 rows.
Row 7: sl 1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Row 8: sl 1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, ssp, sl 1.
Row 9: Rep row 7
Row 10: Rep row 8
Row 11: Rep row 7
Row 12: Rep row 8
Row 13: Rep row 7 *Mark beg and end sts of row 13 with a contrasting piece of yarn.
Row 14: Rep row 8
Row 15: Rep row 7
Row 16: Rep row 8
Row 17: sl 1, k to end.
Row 18: sl 1, p to end.
Row 19: Rep row 7
Row 20: Rep row 18
Row 21: Rep row 17
Row 22: Rep row 18
Row 23: Rep row 7
Row 24: Rep row 18
Row 25: Rep row 17
Row 26: Rep row 18
Row 27: Rep row 7
Row 28: Rep row 18
Row 29: Rep row 17
Row 30: Rep row 18
Row 31: Rep row 7
Row 32: Rep row 18
Row 33: Rep row 17
Row 34: Rep row 18
Row 35: Rep row 7
Rows 36-62: Work in stockinette, remembering to slip the first st of each row. Cast off, weave in ends.

*Row 46-Mark the beg and end st of this row with a contrasting color of yarn.

Gusset Instructions
Holding your completed wrap body so that the ribbing is in your left hand with purl side toward your body, look at the slipped edge stitches. Find the center 3 stitches between the two rows marked with the scrap yarn and pick up a stitch in each one, starting with the one closest to the bottom edge of the wrap. Turn and knit these 3 stitches, pick up 2 more stitches, turn. You have 5 stitches on your needle. Purl these 5 and pick up 2 more, turn. Knit 7 stitches and pick up 2 more, turn. Keep working this way in stockinette, picking up 2 more stitches at the end of each row until you can only pick up 1 stitch on both ends. Pick up the one stitch, turn and cast off the remaining stitches, then pick up the last stitch to be picked up (in the slipped edge stitch marked with your scrap yarn), and cast off.

Weave in ends.
Repeat instuctions for other side, except hold the wrap with the ribbing end in your right hand. This should make a nice little leg gusset with the knit side exposed.

Feel free to use this pattern for your own personal use. I would appreciate any feedback on it. Looking at the one I just made, I have realized some areas that could use improvement. Maybe this will get you started on designing your own. I made this by looking at one of my daughter's old diaper covers (don't know the brand, got it from the diaper service). The cover fit well as I recall, and this one that I just knit is exactly same shape and size. I am anxious to know how this works for anyone. I suppose you could sew in some velcro or aplix, but I thought I would just use pins to close it.

I hope you enjoy it as much as did coming up with it!
Victoria


Jen's Wrap (Modified Victoria's Wrap pattern)
I used 2 strands of worsted weight 100% wool yarn. Fisherman’s wool, or Bernat Lana yarn will work well. I used 4.5mm or US 7 needles for the beginning and ending ribbing and size 6.0mm or US 10 needles for the rest.

The sizes are NB, S, M, L, T.

Cast on 50 (64, 76, 88, 100) stitches.
row 1: sl1, k1, p1 to end of row.
row2: sl1, p1, k1, to end of row.
Continue ribbing for 1(1, 1.5, 1.5, 2) inches.

Button option:
If you want to use buttons for closures, you will have to work a buttonhole into the ribbing. Halfway through the rows of ribbing (dependant on the size you are making) you will work a row of 3 stitches as normal, k2tog, yfwd, and repeat this sequence in reverse at the end of the row.

Switch to larger needles now.
row 3: sl 1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, k1
row 4: sl1, ssp, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1
continue alternating rows 3 and 4 for 1 (1,1.5, 1.5,1.5) inches
Mark slipped stitches at each end with loop of contrasting yarn or twist tie.

continue alternating rows 3 and 4 for 1 (1.5, 1.5, 2,2.5) more inches.

row 1: sl1, k1, p1 to end of row.
row2: sl1, p1, k1, to end of row.
Alternate rows 1 and 2 for 5 (6, 7.5, 9,10) inches.

row 5: sl1, k to end of row
row 6: sl1, p to end of row
alternate rows 5 and 6 for .5(.5,.75,.75,1) inch.
Mark slipped stitches at each end with loop of contrasting yarn or twist tie.

Continue alternating row 5 and 6 for .5(.5, .75, .75,1) inch

cast on 3(3, 4, 5,6) stitches
turn work
sl1, k to end of row, cast on 3(3, 4, 5,6) stitches.
sl1, p to end of row

Switch to smaller needles now.
row 7: sl1, k1, p1 to end of row.
row 8: sl1, p1, k1 to end of row.
Alternate rows 7 and 8 for 1(1, 1.5, 1.5,2) inches.

Cast off loosely.

Gussets:

Find the five middle stitches between marked rows on one side of soaker. Pick up and knit the five stitches. Turn.

p2tog, p2tog, p to end of work pick up three stitches purlwise. Turn.
k2tog, k2tog, knit to end of work pick up three stitches knitwise. Turn.

p2tog, p2tog, *k1,p1* repeat between stars to end, turn
k2tog, k2tog, *p1, k1* repeat between stars to end of work
when you reach the marker on the first end, start casting off loosely, when you reach the other end, pick up last stitch (es) on that end and cast off.



The Boy-leg short styled soaker I've been knitting:
Gail's Boyleg
6months up.
Double knit (preferably wool - 100%)
No 4 ( 8 ) Needles for rib (plus No 4.5 (7) for tighter stitches/patterns)

Starting at front:
Cast on 56 sts
Rib K1, P1 (or K2, P2) rib for 4 rows
*K1, K2tog won, Rib 2, Repeat * to end
Rib a further 5 rows, then commence pattern (e.g. stocking stitch, garter stitch or some fancy weave etc) as selected.

Continue in pattern for 10 rows, increase each side, - this is repeated 4 times - 64sts - measures 18cm from beg.

Cast off 4 sts at beginning of each row till 24sts remain, cont straight for 4cm, then cast on 4sts beginning of each row till 64sts.

Continue and decrease at each end of 10th row (4 times) till 56sts remain, cont till work measures 14cm (or same as front pattern (do not include rib waistband).

To shape back - Knit (maintaining pattern) till last 6sts, turn, Knit to last 6sts turn, Knit till last 12 sts, turn, Knit till last 12sts, turn, knit till last 18sts, turn knit till last 18sts, turn, K to end.

Finish off with ribbing as done for the front.

HINT, when you turn, slip 1st stitch onto needle then knit into 2nd stitch.
Continue in Rib for waist band, Cast off, taking care not to pull too tight.

Ribbing around legs pick up and knit approx 56 sts - for 5/6 rows, cast off loosely

Sew up side seams, thread elastic or ribbon, tie etc.


Elizabeth's Soaker Pattern
Here is the pattern for soakers that are pictured. I use a heavy sweater wool (no synthetic blends). I don't like superwash because it doesn't shrink and felt nicely. Handspun can be very nice and has natural lanolin in it. You can try Aran or Icelandic if you have some.

I use 5mm needles and then wash in hot water until the soaker is the right size. I haven't made any newborn size for a few years because my newborns wear hand-me-downs. So I make the bigger sizes, and the older soakers fit the smaller children.

SOAKERS.
Front Waistband. Cast on 132 stitches.
1st row: *p7 k2. Repeat from * across. Repeat this row 7 more times.
9th row: (eyelets for cord) *p2. Leaving yarn forward, k2 together.
Repeat from * across.
10th row: *p2 k2 Repeat from * across. Repeat 10th row 8 more times,
increasing 1 st each end on last row. (134 stitches)

Ventilated section.
1st row: *k2. sl 1. k1. PSSO. Repeat from * to 2 sts of end. k2
2nd row: p2. *YO. p3. Repeat from * to end.
Repeat these rows, alternately, until ventilated section measures 6 inches.
Work garter stitch (all rows knit) until work is 10 inches from waistband.

To Shape:
1st row: (right side) k47 stitches. Place on holder for leg. K to end.
2nd row:(wrong side) Same as 1st row. Work k2, p2 ribbing on the 40 stitches for 4 inches.

Back Gusset.
1st and 2nd rows: knit
3rd and 4th rows: k1. Incr 1. K to end
Repeat these 4 rows 6 more times (54 sts).
Knit 7 more rows
Next row: k to 3 sts of end. K2 together. k1
Next row: Same as last row. Knit 4 more rows even.
Repeat these last 6 rows 6 times.(40 sts)
Continue in garter stitch until work is 10 inches above crotch ribbing.

Waistband.
Same as front. Cast off in ribbing.

Legbands. Both the same.
With right side facing, pick up and knit 29 sts along side of crotch ribbing plus the stitches from the holder (76 st).
Work k2 p2 ribbing for 2 inches ( or more if you want long legs)
Cast off loosely in ribbing.

Cord for waist.
Make a crocheted or twisted cord to fit Baby's waist plus 6 inches. I put pom-poms on the ends of the cord so it doesn't pull back through the eyelets.

Wash once in hot water, and check the size. Wash again as needed to get the size you want. In future, just wash in cold water so the size won't change any more.

These are classic soakers. I hope you enjoy them.


Jennifer’s Soaker Pattern

finished measurements:
waist – 22”
rise – 10”
leg – 13”

tension: 17 st/10 cm (4”)

needles: size 4.5 mm (US 7) circular or whatever size for correct tension

instructions:
Cast on 94 stitches. Rib 1.5”. Knit in st st, increasing 6 st in first row (100 st), for 6”. Put back 50 st on stitch holder. For front, dec. 3 st at beginning of next two rows. Dec. 2 at beginning and 1 at end of next four rows. Dec. 1 at beginning and end of every fourth row to 22 st. Put st. on stitch holder. For back, dec. 1 st. at each end of every other row to 30 st, then every row to 22 st. Graft crotch together. Pick up and knit 60 st around leg and rib 9 rows. Same for other leg.

*knit waist to thigh in the round, thigh down is knit flat, front and back separately.



Tabitha’s Crochet Wrap Soaker Pattern
This is my first pattern, so any feedback is greatly appreciated! I hope it is easy to read and works up quickly for you. The ones I’ve made so far have worked very well – I use them for my daughter’s night diapers every night! Good luck and happy crocheting! The model is my 8 month old daughter, wearing one of the soakers from this pattern. It’s just a bit too small and she is 15 lbs, just to give an idea. (Note from Leanne who has copied & posted this - there are photos to show steps, email/PM me if you want me to email the Word file to you)

With four different wrapping options, the finished measurements are: waist 9 inches to 17 inches; Rise 12 inches to 15 ½ inches; Leg openings 4 inches to 8 ½ inches

Gauge 14 rows = 4”, 16 stitches = 4” with worsted weight wool
Hook = H
4 markers
This pattern works from the back to the front, then adds leg gussets

SS = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
Decrease = Insert hook into loops, YO and draw yarn through loops as if to SC, now there will be two loops on hook, SC in following stitch drawing through all three loops thereby reducing by 1 stitch
Increase = SC twice in same stitch

Chain 36 loosely, Turn
R1 – SC in second stitch from hook and in each stitch for total of 35 SC, Chain 3, Turn
R2 – DC in 4th stitch from hook (first 3 stitches count as first DC now and throughout pattern), DC in each remaining 34 stitches for total of 35 DC, Chain 1, Turn
R3 – SC in each DC for total of 35 SC, Chain 3, Turn
R4 - SC in 4th stitch from hook, DC in each remaining 34 stitches, Chain 1, Turn
R5 - SC in each DC for 35 stitches, Chain 1, Turn
R6 – SC in each SC for 33 stitches, Decrease 1, Chain 1, Turn
R7 – SC in each SC up to the last two stitches of row, Decrease 1, Chain 1, Turn
Repeat R7 for 11 rows until 21 stitches remain
R18 – Decrease 1, SC for 17, Decrease 1, for a row total of 19 stitches, Chain 1, Turn
R19 - Decrease 1, SC for 15, Decrease 1, for a row total of 17 stitches, Chain 1, Turn
R20 – SC in each SC for total of 17 stitches, Chain 1, Turn
Repeat R20 for 11 rows
R31 – Decrease 1, SC up to the last two stitches of row, Decrease 1, Chain 1, Turn
Repeat R31 for 4 rows until 9 stitches remain
R35 – SC in each SC for 9 stitches, Chain 1, Turn
Repeat R35 for 8 rows
R43 – Increase 1, SC up to the last stitch of row, Increase 1, Chain 1, turn
Repeat R43 for 4 rows up to 17 stitches
R47 – Increase 1, SC for 16 stitches, Chain 1, Turn
Repeat R47 for 10 rows increasing stitches to 27
R57 – SC in each stitch for 27 stitches, Chain 3, Turn
R58 - SC in 4th stitch from the end, DC in next 26 stitches, Chain 1, Turn
R59 – SC in each SC for 27 stitches, Chain 3, Turn
R60 - SC in 4th stitch from the end, DC in next 26 stitches, Chain 1, Turn
R61 – SC in each SC for 27 stitches, Finish Off


Leg Gussets
Fold wrap so that the top of the front and the top of the back line up evenly. At R43, place one marker at the beginning and the end of the row. Going up two rows in the back, place a marker at the beginning and the end of the same row - R21 – This does not have to be exact, but both markers have to be on the same row.

R1 - At a marker, SC in the horizontal bar, and in each horizontal bar along the leg opening to the back marker, Chain 3, Turn
R2 - SC in 4th stitch from the end, DC in next 21 stitches, SC into horizontal bar two rows up, Chain 1, Turn
R3 – *Decrease 1, SC one, Decrease 1, SC one*, Repeat from * to * until end of row, SC into horizontal bar two rows up, Chain 2, Turn
R4 - SC in 4th stitch from the end, DC in next 10 stitches, SC into horizontal bar one row up, Chain 1, Turn
R5 - *Decrease 1, SC one, Decrease 1, SC one*, Repeat from * to * until end of row, SC into horizontal bar one row up, Chain 1, Turn
R6 – *Decrease 1, SC one, Decrease 1, SC one*, Repeat from * to * until end of row, SC into horizontal bar one row up, Finish Off

Repeat all rows for other gusset, making sure to keep gusset on the inside of cover.
Sew buttons on inside of back flap, one on each side. Can be folded four different ways to accommodate growth and padding for boys in front or girls in back of diaper. See photos. For extra security around waist, chain 110 stitches and SC in each chain then Finish off. Thread through sets of 2 of first DS row of back flap. Refer to photos.


Tiny Birds Free Soaker (redux infant size)
This is a redux of the Tiny Birds free soaker pattern, adjusting for a smaller (infant) size, adding a diamond-pattern ribbing in the crotch and making the leg cuffs more neutral.

This pattern re-work is posted with approval from Jenny of Tiny Birds Organics. For the original pattern, kits, Treliske Organic wool and other organic cloth diapering supplies, please see http://www.TinyBirds.com

CO 35 on #5 straight needles

Row 1 K2, P1
Row 2 P2, K1
Rows 3-10: Repeat 1 & 2
Switch to #7 straight needles
Row 11: K2, Mk 1, K across to last 2 stitches, Mk 1, K2
Row 12: P
Rows 13 – 30: Repeat 11 & 12 (53 stitches)
Rows 31-38: work in St st
Row 39: K2, SSK, K across to last 4, K2Tog, K2 (51)
Row 40: P
Rows 41-50: Repeat 39 & 40 (41)
Row 51: K2, SSK, K15, P, K, P, K15, K2Tog, K2 (39)
Row 52: P18, K, P, K, P18
Row 53: K2, SSK, K12, {P1,K1}3, P, K12, K2Tog, K2 (37)
Row 54: P15, {K1,P1} 3, K, P15
Row 55: K2, SSK, K9, {P1,K1} 5, P, K9, K2Tog, K2 (35)
Row 56: P12, {K1, P1} 5, K, P12
Row 57: K2, SSK, K6, {P1, K1} 7, P, K6, K2Tog, K2 (33)
Row 58: P9, {K1, P1} 7, K1, P9
Row 59: K2, SSK, K3, {P1, K1} 9, P1, K3, K2Tog, K2 (31)
Row 60: P6, {K1, P1} 9, K1, P6
Row 61: K2, SSK, {P1,K1} across to last 4, K2Tog, K2 (29)
Row 62: P3, {K1, P1} across to last 3, P3
Row 63: K3, {P1, K1} across to last 3, K3
Rows 64-66: Repeat 62 & 63
Row 67: K2, MK1, K1, {P1, K1} across to last 3, K1, MK1, K2 (31)
Row 68: P4, {K1, P1} across to last 4, P4
Row 69: K2, MK1, K2, {P1,K1} across to last 4, K2, MK1, K2 (33)
Row 70: P5, {K1,P1} across to last 5, P5
Row 71: K2, MK1, K5, {P1,K1} 9, P1, K5, MK1, K2 (35)
Row 72: P8, {K1, P1} 9, P8
Row 73: K2, MK1, K8, {P1, K1} 7, P1, K8, MK1, K2 (37)
Row 74: P11, {K1, P1} 7, K1, P11
Row 75: K2, MK1, K11, {P1, K1} 5, P1, K11, MK1, K2 (39)
Row 76: P14, {K1, P1} 5, K1, P14
Row 77: K2, MK1, K14, {P1, K1} 3, P1, K14, MK1, K2 (41)
Row 78: P17, {K1, P1} 3, K1, P17
Row 79: K2, MK1, K17, P1, K1, P1, K17, MK1, K2 (43)
Row 80: P20, K1, P1, K1, P20
Row 81: K2, MK1, K across to last 2, MK1, K2 (45)
Row 82: P across
Rows 83-90: Repeat 81 & 82 (53)
Rows 91-109: Work in St st
Row 110: P across
Row 111: K2, SSK, K across to last 4, K2Tog, K2 (51)
Row 112: P across
Row 113-127: Repeat 111 & 112 (35)
Switch back to #5 straight needles
Row 128: P2, K1 across
Row 129: K2, P1 across
Rows 130-137: Repeat 128 & 129

Bind off in pattern.

Block and seam at sides to just below the wide part. Pick up stitches around leg hole on #5 dpns and add ribbed or stockinette cuffs. Bind off loosely.



Valerie's Leggings
6 months, 12 months and 18 months
4 ounces wool
Size 2 and 3 needles

Leg make 2 ~ cast on 46 (50-56) sts loosely. With size 2-needle work n ribbing for 2 inches increasing 20 sts evenly spaced across last row 66 (70-76) sts.
Body ~ change to size 3 needles. Work in stockinette stitch until leg measures 7 (8-10) “ from cast on edge, ending by working a purl row.
Shaping~ Row 1 Increase, knit across to last stitch increase 69 (72-78) sts
Row 2 purl across
Rows 3-6 Repeat row 1 and 2 twice 72 (76-82)
Note~ tie a short piece of yarn around the first and last stitch of last row worked to mark end of shaping. Work even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 61/4 (71/4-81/4)”
Waistband~ change to size 2 needles work in ribbing for 2 inches

Sew center front and back seams from top of waistband to marker, sew inseam



Wool Soaker Flat
For a toddler size.....

I cast on about 50 stitches needle size 9
rib two inches
knit 3 inches (front)
rib 6 inches
knit 4 inches (back)
rib two inches

St up sides



Woolly Britches
Size:
S, M with larger hook
(Photo of 2 completed soakers included in file - email/PM me for the document)

Materials:
F (G for a medium) hook
lightweight worsted weight yarn (Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool was used in the example, with an E hook)
Yarn needle for sewing

Stitches used:
Chain Stitch (ch), Single Crochet (sc), Double Crochet (dc), Slip Stitch (sl st), Double Crochet Decrease (dc dec)
Gauge:
10 patterns (sc, dc) and 17 rows to 4″

Note: ch 1 at the beginning of round is a turning stitch, does not count toward total st in row.

Soaker Body
ch. 17 loosely
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, *sc in next ch, dc in next ch* across (16 st); turn.

Increasing Rows:
Row 2: ch3, *sc in dc, dc in sc* across (17); turn.
Row 3: ch 1, *sc in dc, dc in sc* to last st (sc, dc) in top of ch 3 (18); turn.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2 (19).
Row 5: Repeat Row 3, do not turn at end (20).
Row 6: ch 9 (now turn), sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, *sc in next st, dc in next st* across (28), turn.
Row 7: ch 1, *sc in dc, dc in sc* across; turn.
Rows 8-19: Work evenly: Repeat Row 7.

Decreasing Rows:
Row 20: sl st in first 9 st. ch1 dc dec in this and next st, *sc in dc, dc in sc* across (19), turn.
Row 21: ch 1, *sc in dc, dc in sc* to last 3 st, sc in next, dc dec 2 st together (18), turn.
Row 22: ch 1, dc dec first 2 st together, *sc in dc, dc in sc* across (17), turn.
Row 23: Repeat Row 21 (16).
Rows 24 & 25: Work evenly: Repeat Row 7.
Increasing Rows:
Rows 26-41: Alternate Repeating Rows 2 & 3, 8 times (32).
Rows 42-55: Work evenly:Repeat Row 7.

Decreasing Rows:
Rows 56-71: Alternate Repeating Rows 22&23, 8 times (16).
Row 72: Repeat Row 7, do not turn. Finish off, leaving end for sewing.

Sew side seam and crotch seam using invisible stitches.
Waistband
Rnd 1: ch 1, sc in end st of each row (74); join with sl st, turn
Rnd 2-3: ch 1, sc in each sc around; turn.
Picot Edging:
Rnd 4: ch 1, *(sc, ch 2, sl st in same sc), sc in next st* around (37 picots made)

For a boy, you may want to leave off the 4th round or simply repeat one more round of sc.

Leg Openings
You can choose a leg finishing:
Ribbing style:
Rnd 1: ch2, dc in each st (end with an even #), join with sl st, turn.
Rnd 2: ch2, (fpdc in next, bpdc in next) around, fpdc in last, join with sl st; turn.
Repeat rnd 2 till desired length (I usually repeat it 2-3 times).
*OR*
If the openings seem large, sc a few rounds.
For either: Use the Picot Edging, or Ruffles (ch2, 3-5 dc in each st)

Easy fitting tips:
For a longer soaker body, just sew more stitches into the upper area (eg. start with a beg ch of 21 stitches instead of 17).
note: Adjustments to the body of the soaker are best done in pairs of rows, but with a little practice/tweaking may be done just one row at a time.
To fit wider hips, use a larger hook and/or add a few more rows (this may be easiest in the rise area)
To fit larger legs, add a few more rows at the leg openings (rows 1 & 74, and rows 25& 26)

Jennifer Halsted of ToHook.com, copyright 2004



Crochet Soakers

Materials:
2.25 ounces (345 yards) wool or wool-blend yarn
crochet hook size needed for gauge (D for small, F for medium, H for large)
yarn needle

BODY:
CH 46
Row 1: SC in second CH from hook and in each CH across. 45 SC.
Row 2-12: CH 1, turn. SC in each SC across.
Row 13: CH 3 (counts as first DC), turn. * Skip next SC, (SC, CH 1, DC) in next SC; Repeat from * across to last 2 SC, Skip next SC, SC in last SC. 21 CH-1 spaces.
Row 14-21: CH 3, turn. (SC, CH 1, DC) in each CH-1 space across. Skip next SC, SC in last DC.
Row 22-29: (decrease rows) turn. Slip Stitch in next DC and in next CH-1 space, CH 3, (SC, CH 1, DC) in each CH-1 space across to last CH-1 space, SC in last CH-1 space, leaving remaining stitches unworked. 5 CH-1 spaces at the end of Row 29.
Row 30-35: CH 3, turn. (SC, CH 1, DC) in each CH-1 space across. Skip next SC, SC in last DC.
Row 36: (increase row) CH 3, turn. (SC, CH 1, DC) in next DC and in each CH-1 space across. (SC, CH 1, DC) in next SC, SC in last DC.
Row 37: CH 3, turn. (SC, CH 1, DC) in each CH-1 space across, skip next SC, SC in last DC.
Row 38-50: Repeat rows 36 and 37 six times, then repeat row 36 once more.
Row 51-59: CH 3, turn. (SC, CH 1, DC) in each CH-1 space across, skip next SC, SC in last DC.
Row 60: CH 1, turn. SC in first 2 stitches and in next CH-1 space, (skip next SC, SC in next DC and in next CH-1 space) across to last 2 stitches, SC in last two stitches.
Row 61-71: CH 1, turn. SC in each SC across.
Finish off leaving a long end for sewing, weave side seams.

LEG OPENINGS:
Round 1: With right side facing, join yarn with slip stitch in side seam. CH 3, working in end of rows, work 51 DC evenly spaced around leg opening. Join with slip stitch to first DC. 52 DC.
Round 2: CH 3, do not turn. Work FPDC around next DC, (DC in next DC, FPDC around next DC) around. Join with slip stitch to first DC.
Round 3: CH 1, SC in same stitch, work FPSC around next DC (SC in next DC, FPSC around next DC) around, join with slip stitch to first SC. Finish off.

Repeat for second leg opening.
Last edited by Dunners on Fri Jun 16, 2006 4:13 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Leanne
Mum to 3 beautiful children
Image Small and Large pocket patterns available, for a small donation to Unicef. DIY kits also available for $5 each with free pattern. PM or email me for more info...

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kiwi101
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Posts: 1389
Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 2:11 pm
Location: upper hutt nz

Post by kiwi101 » Wed May 04, 2005 8:30 am

havent done this one yet, but it looks awesome...



http://www.littlebellesoakers.com/doodl ... ttern.html
The Kiwis

I am a typo just WAITING to happen...

we are manic, mellow, average, exceptional, independant, reliant on each other, tired, full of energy...

caffiene is NOT my friend, neither is sugar... But that hasn't stopped me yet ...

Dunners
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Post by Dunners » Wed May 04, 2005 8:07 pm

Leanne
Mum to 3 beautiful children
Image Small and Large pocket patterns available, for a small donation to Unicef. DIY kits also available for $5 each with free pattern. PM or email me for more info...

Dunners
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Post by Dunners » Thu May 05, 2005 8:05 am

This blog has just been created. It contains patterns for an old vintage knit book (reproduced with permission) including a soaker and longies with feet.
http://freevintageknitcrochet.blogspot.com/
Leanne
Mum to 3 beautiful children
Image Small and Large pocket patterns available, for a small donation to Unicef. DIY kits also available for $5 each with free pattern. PM or email me for more info...

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Janine
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Post by Janine » Thu May 05, 2005 9:26 am

Thank you :) :)

Dunners
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Post by Dunners » Sat May 14, 2005 11:09 pm

Leanne
Mum to 3 beautiful children
Image Small and Large pocket patterns available, for a small donation to Unicef. DIY kits also available for $5 each with free pattern. PM or email me for more info...

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kiwi101
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Post by kiwi101 » Sun Aug 28, 2005 8:48 am

waistband that doesnt need a tie

http://www.curlypurly.com/pattern.html
The Kiwis

I am a typo just WAITING to happen...

we are manic, mellow, average, exceptional, independant, reliant on each other, tired, full of energy...

caffiene is NOT my friend, neither is sugar... But that hasn't stopped me yet ...

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kiwi101
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Post by kiwi101 » Sun Aug 28, 2005 8:50 am

The Kiwis

I am a typo just WAITING to happen...

we are manic, mellow, average, exceptional, independant, reliant on each other, tired, full of energy...

caffiene is NOT my friend, neither is sugar... But that hasn't stopped me yet ...

Sharonnz
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Post by Sharonnz » Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:07 pm

Bump for all those getting lovely Tekapo wool! Sharon

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LemonNZ
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Post by LemonNZ » Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:27 pm

I may have doubled up but this way you can cut and paste my whole post if you wish to save this info:

Aubrey Doodle Pants (longies) http://www.littlebellesoakers.com/doodl ... ttern.html

Cargo Longies - (very cute) http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer05/PATTcargo.html

Fern & Faerie Soaker
http://www.fernandfaerie.com/freesoakerpattern.html

Tiny Bird Longies http://www.birdcrossstitch.com/organicw ... pants.html

Tickle Turdle crocheted wrap http://www.tickleturdle.com/wrappattern.html

Punk Knitters Soaker
http://www.livejournal.com/community/pu ... 10889.html

Tiny Birds Soaker (the top is very cute knitted in 8ply bobbly cotton too)
http://www.birdcrossstitch.com/soakers/pattern/

I also have some other patterns from pattern books if anyone is after something in particular email me or post here and I will see what I can find.

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ClothConvert
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Post by ClothConvert » Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:33 pm

don't forget to post pics of your efforts on the longies gallery - http://www.thenappynetwork.org.nz/phpBB ... .php?t=437

Remember to add which pattern you used.

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nznats
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Post by nznats » Wed Sep 28, 2005 5:33 pm

Does anyone have a pattern for knitted pants with ruffles at the cuffs? and does anyone have a knitted capri pants pattern?
Natalie! Mama to Amalia (04/04) Aston (03/07) Davien (06/08) and Kalina (05/10)

~It will all be okay in the end, if it's not okay, it's not the end ~

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LemonNZ
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Post by LemonNZ » Wed Sep 28, 2005 5:41 pm

Natalie do you mean ruffled like this one?

Tiny Birds Soaker (the top is very cute knitted in 8ply bobbly cotton too)
http://www.birdcrossstitch.com/soakers/pattern/

It is a very cute pattern and fits really nicely on little girls over fitted nappies

When you say capri pants do you mean just 3/4 length with a split at the sides? You could use a longies pattern and make them shorter then not stitch them all the way down the side seams.

Michelle

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LemonNZ
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Post by LemonNZ » Wed Sep 28, 2005 5:45 pm

Natalie I think the cargo longies pattern made to only 3/4 length without the pockets would be very cute.

Cargo Longies - (very cute) http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer05/PATTcargo.html

Michelle

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nznats
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Post by nznats » Wed Sep 28, 2005 6:47 pm

Natalie! Mama to Amalia (04/04) Aston (03/07) Davien (06/08) and Kalina (05/10)

~It will all be okay in the end, if it's not okay, it's not the end ~

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