Help Claire - or other coverstitch/overlocking guru's :)

[jailee]

So I'm finally having a decent go with my coverstitch machine.
The tension seems to be hard to get right. Do you always have to test on scrap fabric before starting, and fiddle around numerous times before getting it right? Or is it something you instinctively learn after a while?
I've just sewn a merino L/S top, and it seems great (if you don't look too closely at the coverstitching because of above tension issues, LOL) (though haven't done the neckline yet
My question...... I coverstitched the hem and sleeve hems first, then overlocked the sides after. How do I finish off the overlocked edges/ends/chain or whatever you call it? I just am not quite sure how to tidily finish it so that it looks good and doesn't unravel. I think I would usually have hemmed last, then the overlocked bit is hemmed up anyway. But I remember you guys saying to do it this way, and actually I really like constructing it this way! Just need to know some of the tricks.
While I'm here, with the neckline, easiest way is to cut a strip (do I have to cut this on the bias or just acrossways - most stretch....) less than the circumference of the circle (about 3/4?) Sew short ends so I have a circle, fold, sew/overlock(which is best? Presumably sew - easier to unpick if I get it wrong!) right sides together stretching to fit, then turn and coverstitch to finish it?? Have I got this right?
Thanks for your patience and help, much appreciated!

[Claire]

The machine isn't the easiest to tension, especially hemming on thin and very stretchy knits.. you often need to fiddle and take the looper down to 0. It DOES get easier the more you use it.

Tops are sewn in a different order depending on how you are doing the neckline.
If you are not using a binder then use this order:
Hem sleeves (you can do this any time before you sew the side seams)
Sew both shoulder seams... if you want to use a binder sew only one side seam.
Sew the neckline with whatever binding method you are using
sew the sleeves on
sew the side and underarm sleeves (starting at bottom hem up to the underarm and the sleeve last so your arm seams point to the sleeve)
hem the bottom. Make sure that you finish the coverstitching properly or it will come undone.

If you have a look back on the forum I linked to great tute showing how to do different types of bindings for the neckline. I'll try and bump it if I find it

[onabear]

For tidying overlocked ends I was taught to start at the neat end first ( what would be your hemmed edge) sew down a cm or so pull the loose chain at the start tight and bring to the front and sew over - make sense? Others will probably be more help.

[Claire]

Your only part where you are left with over locking will be the sleeve hem (and neckline if you bind it). I either hand sew the chain in .. I find that the best...or tuck it down and do a little bar tack to hold it in place.

[jailee]

Thanks Claire, it's much clearer now. Funny, I would never have known to do it this way, would've muddled around doing my own thing. In terms of there being only one part where I'm left with an overlocking chain, do you mean that the starting bit is done like onabear said?

For tidying overlocked ends I was taught to start at the neat end first ( what would be your hemmed edge) sew down a cm or so pull the loose chain at the start tight and bring to the front and sew over - make sense? Others will probably be more help.

I never knew this! Lol I have so much to learn. So I have two chains - one at the start and one at the end....

[Claire]

I didn't really follow that sorry. The way I do it I have only one end (the sleeve) the start of the side seam overlocking will be hemmed up. Does that make sense?

[Gaia]

Jo...when I get home I'll have to come for a visit and a demo
So long away from machines I've forgotten how to sew

[jailee]

I didn't really follow that sorry. The way I do it I have only one end (the sleeve) the start of the side seam overlocking will be hemmed up. Does that make sense?

Oh yes it does now. I thought you did all the hemming - sleeves and bottom hem before you sewed up the sides. So that overlocked bit at the bottom edge was what I was puzzling over trying to make tidy.
Ok then, will do that next time!