Sewing your own pocket nappy with gusset legs...

[Dunners]

Well, I hate to admit that the last 2 Saturday nights I've been at home sewing! What a sad social life (mixture of having a baby, it being freeeeezing cold outside, the rugby being on the telly and being addicted to sewing! Argh. Is there hope for me???)

So, tonight's project was to make a pocket nappy with gussets. The following photos were taken of my first attempt. I'm yet to try it on Emily, so I am yet to find out what it fits like (fingers crossed I won't be embarrassing myself with a dud pattern!).

The Pattern:
I used the same pattern as the other instructions for making your own fitted nappy and pocket nappy. And, since my package from GreenBeans arrived, I decided not to use snaps and have made one with Aplix instead (such lovely and soft loop - irresistable).

Fabric & Notions:
For this nappy I used a waterproof layer and print velvet outer (partly because I have plenty of waterproof fabric and didn't want to waste PUL if it didn't work for me, and also to show how to do the back elastic if you use 2 layers for the outside of the pocket). So, the fabric required for this is the same as for the other pocket instructions...
* 50 cm x 53 cm piece of PUL (or of polar fleece and waterproof nylon)
* 25 cm x 10 cm scrap of PUL if you are using polarfleece & waterproof nylon for the outer layer
* 50 cm x 53 cm piece of microfleece (or microsuede)
* 35 cm x 9 cm piece of scrap microfleece or PUL to reinforce the PUL at the snap/loop point (you don't need this for a fleece & nylon pocket)
* approx 1.5 m of fold over elastic (FOE)
* approx 50 cm of 1" aplix loop tape (or 25 cm of 2" loop tape)
* approx 30 cm of 1" hook tape (or 16 cm of 2" hook tape)
* optional (as I have done) 25 cm of lastin for the pocket

Step 1: Cutting out the gussets
I will update the pattern with gusset marks. If you are using PUL cutting the gusset is easy - you can use fabric from where you've cut out the leg part of the pattern. (If you have used polarfleece & waterproof nylon you will need to find a scrap piece of PUL to use).



Step 2: Sewing the FOE onto the gussets
Stretch the FOE as much as it can go and pin along the straight side of the gusset. Sew on the FOE stretching the FOE as you go (I use a zig-zag stitch - I have seen straight stitch used on other items)



Step 3: Preparing the back pocket
This is a photo of the back of a Stuffables Pocket nappy.



It has FOE gathering the waterproof layer, and the microfleece layer is not gathered. Personally, I prefer to have the microfleece layer gathered as it helps keep the insert in (and stops skin touching the PUL). So, I decided to do the back of the pocket like I do for a "stitch & turn" pocket. Here is a photo of the back elastic on the waterproof layer (note I've treated the nylon and print fabric as one fabric).


Step 4: Tummy time
Pin and sew on the tummy loop tape or add your snaps. I have used 2 rows of 1" aplix - yummy soft tape! I have taken it to the edges as the FOE will cover the edges.


Trim the tape so that it is the same shape as the edge of the fabric (forgot to take a photo of that, sorry!)
Sew on the loop tape (I use a 3 step zig-zag). If using 2 strips of 1" tape, don't forget to sew the two layers together too.

Step 5: Wrong sides together
Pin or clip the layers of wrong sides together. Straight stitch around the whole of the nappy. Serge the edges with an overlocker if you like (not necessary though).


Step 6: Adding the gussets
I used safety pins to mark where the gathering of the legs should start and end. I then used dressmaking pins to mark the start and end of where the gussets should be placed. (sorry it's blurry!)



Attach the gusset at the start and end, pinning it on the microfleece liner side, with the side of the PUL that will touch the leg, on the microfleece side. Stretch the gusset out and pin along the length to make sewing easier. When you are happy with it, sew each gusset onto the nappy.
[img]


Step 7: Adding the hook tape
I forgot to do this bit - so I decided to unpick the FOE as I wanted the FOE to cover the edges of the hook tape (definitely worth doing IMO). I used 2" wide hook tape that I had on hand, you could use 2 strips of 1" instead.



Sew with straight stitch around the whole piece of hook tape

Step 8: Final step!
Because of the way I like the opening for the back pocket, I had an obvious beginning & end for the FOE. I folded over the edge of the FOE and pinned it on. I used a simple zig-zag to sew it on around the nappy. Once I reached the safety pin markers I stretched the FOE as far as it would go to gather at the legs. Once I reached the "end" maker safety pin, I stopped stretching the FOE and kept moving around. At the other side of the pocket (the end), I cut the FOE, folded some under and finished it off.

The final product:
The outside stuffed with a medium/regular prefold


The inside (not that you can see much since it is all white


So, I hope I've not missed anything. It's definitely a slower nappy to make than a "stitch & turn" pocket (probably took me about 2 hours - mind you some of that time was careful unpicking of the FOE!)

I shall add a gusset pattern to the pattern sheet that will be available soon.

Questions? Comments?

[Sharonnz]

Yet again, you ROCK!! What a clever, clever lady:-) Sharon

[helen]

that looks awesome love the velvet look of material
well done leanne

[Darny]

WOW (can I tell you how silly I feel, I put the polarfleece and the micro fleece AND the waterproof layer all sewed together as the gusset, no wonder it didn't work and was SO hard to sew!)

Looks really neat, I think I'll have an attempt at it

I should be able to put the marks on the pattern here Leanne, from the picture you put up, it doesn't look to difficult, especially if the photo guide is available as instructions.

Do let us know how it fits, I'm wondering how much of the rise it 'takes up' and if it makes the nappy shorter, or if it makes very little difference.

[Dunners]

Shar - I'll send you a modified gusset to add to the pattern when I send the other patterns this week (just a few finishing touches to be added). I wasn't happy with the depth of the one in the picture (the gussets on the nappy have more depth than what the photo of the pattern would have).

I tried it on Emily this morning. The camera batteries are recharging, so I'll take photos later this afternoon. Not a bad fit IMO.

Next time I make one I'll make it trimmer between the legs (it's fine as it is, I just like trim nappies). I think the rise was fine.

The pattern would make a good cover (and would be easier to make as you don't have to fiddle with the back elastic). Maybe I'll make one today? (I really should mark my students' exams though...) Will have to wait for the batteries to recharge, anyway.

Oh, another thought I had last night. All of the covers/pockets that Em has have the PUL shiny side against the skin. In most cases you probably don't want the shiny side out (I would have gotten away with it this time with shiny velvet outer fabric). If you wanted soft fabric against bubs legs you could double the gusset pattern and have the FOE over a fold instead of an edge. I shall take a photo of that too (maybe I'll do it for the cover?)

Approximate measurements for this pocket...
Rise: 46 cm
Waist: 40 - 56 cm
Thigh: 21 - 32 cm (not too sure about this one - hard to determine because of the gusset)

[Darny]

How much more depth does the gusset need?
I just got told that Sam is leaking out the sides of the pockets I've made (through the micro fleece by the sounds of it), so I'm thinking I'll have to try the gussets. The pattern I'm using has very little width change through the middle, so I'm not quite sure the best way to shape the gussets?

[Dunners]

Righto, sounds like it a gusset pocket would be worth a try.

The gussets I cut out for this one measured 25 cm long and at its widest point 4.5 cm. Next time I'm going to make them a bit wider - more like 5 to 6 cm wide.

For a newborn/small I would suggest a gusset about 16 cm long and 4-5 cm wide

So, mark out your 16 cm straight line. Measure out 4 to 5 cm from the middle. Make a nice smooth curve to join the points. Does that make sense?

[Darny]

The Gusset size you gave me is perfect, but the nappy turns out as a medium not a small , I need to allow for seam allowances (i.e remove most of them)

I have to say, FOE isn't the softest (when you compare it against the microfleece), but the gussets sure do look like they will contain well.

My attempt is in the Homemades gallery.


Thanks Leanne, once again, awesome step by step, easy to follow instructions! (DH has now gotten used to me heading back to the computer in the middle of sewing )

[Dunners]

Here are some photos of Emily in the pocket nappy.

The leg

I'm pleased with the legs - the gussets could easily be made bigger if needed (websites recommend 2 inches - this one is about 1.5)

And from the back


She kept playing with the tummy hook & loop - I am not sure if it was uncomfortable to her, or if she's just starting to take more interest in hook & loop tape. I am going to have a go at making a cover using a different pattern. I want to use black FOE to go with the fabric, so I shall get some tomorrow (the black FOE is a bit softer, so we'll see if that makes a difference).

[Darny]

I downsized the pattern I have by 1cm all over (see picture)



I also used Lastin on the gusset before I added the FOE (the first step) I couldn't get lastin on the rest of the pocket after I'd sewn the gusset onto the body, I will try sewing lastin on BEFORE adding the gusset, as it certainly adds just a little more gathering, which it needs.

This shows the size difference between the two.





This shows the gusset is just slightly more gathered



I think I could have comfortably taken 1.5 cms off the pattern size and still have it end up about the same size as the turned out pockets. (I haven't got any here to compare to)

[bowhunt]

Hi there, I've just discovered this wonderful forum. I have been making pocket nappies for the first time and have had a few leaks. So I was pleased to find your instructions for adding a gusset as it was my next step. Do you add a waterproofing agent to your seams around the legs? I have made my nappies with elastic casing around the legs, PUL outer, microfleece inner, hemp liner. I think that when I sewed the leg casing the holes caused by the machine needle are what is causing the leaks. Do you have any suggestions. I loved the nappy with the foldover elastic, it gives a very nice neat finish, well done and thanks for the info.

[Darny]

Apparently some manufacters suggest you run the naps through a hot wash and dry to close up any needle holes in the PUL before using.

you could try that

[Dunners]

Hey Shar - that's just what I was going to say!

I gave up trying to use leg casings. I am not skilled enough to do it and I decided that a rolled seam (other instructions) gave a nice soft leg area and was so much easier to do (while also reducing wicking).

Did you use a polyester thread? That should help. FuzziBunz have leg casings and I haven't had leaks with them - maybe they use something special on the inside?

So, try a hot wash and hot dry. How well used is the hemp? It could be that it hasn't reached its full absorbency yet, or it could be that it is absorbing too slowly (I add a cotton booster to the microfleece side of Em's night hemp pocket as apparently hemp is slow in absorbing).

And no, no special seam waterproofer used at the seams. I am yet to give the nappy a decent test run though (my girl isn't a big wetter either - so although it may be fine for her, it may not hold up for a big wetter).

Good luck!

[bowhunt]

Thanks ladies, I will try your suggestions. It could be possible that the hemp hasn't reached it's full absorbancy yet as it hasn't been washed that much, when I use a cloth nappy as an insert it doesn't seem to leak. I will also get some polyester thread today just to make sure. My husband is at sea at the moment so it's kind of nice having all my sewing stuff everywhere with no complaints!! Jens nappy factory! I sourced my PUL from www.acutabovefabrics.com (USA) as they sold squares of PUL, all different patterns, I got my hemp from Green Beans, really impressed with Sarahs website and service. Will give the gusset legs a go today, it's good to have people to talk with that are like minded, none of my friends sew but most of my "mum" friends are interested in the nappies!!. Have a good day. Jen

[Darny]

Good luck with it Jen, do let us know how you get on.